Your Go-To Guide for Navigating Life in Jerusalem and Beyond

Jerusalem Falafel Recipe

Hands down, no other place compares to the Palestinian falafel found in the markets and street vendors of East Jerusalem.

The key to the unique flavor of Jerusalem Palestinian falafel is the addition of spices like cumin and sumac, as well as the use of chickpeas instead of fava beans, like they use elsewhere in the Middle East. The mixture is then formed into small balls and deep-fried to perfection.

One of my favorite spots to grab authentic Palestinian falafel is at the bottom of the stairs when coming into Damascus Gate in the Muslim Quarter of the Old City. The vendor has been there for decades and greets every customer like an old friend. Of course, they use a special technique of frying the falafel by using a dome-shaped scoop, which allows for even cooking and a crispy exterior. Not to mention, it’s made fresh each time!

If you’re unable to make it to Jerusalem, I’ve included a recipe below for you to make your own Jerusalem Palestinian falafel at home.

 

Jerusalem Palestinian Falafel Recipe:

A photograph of Jerusalem falafel

Ingredients:

  • 1 cup dried chickpeas
  • 1/4 cup chopped parsley
  • 1/4 cup chopped cilantro
  • 1 small onion, chopped
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 2 tsp ground cumin
  • 1 tsp ground coriander
  • 1 tsp ground sumac
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 1/4 tsp black pepper
  • Oil for frying

Instructions:

  1. Soak the chickpeas in water overnight.
  2. Drain and rinse the chickpeas, then add them to a food processor with the parsley, cilantro, onion, garlic, cumin, coriander, sumac, salt, and pepper. Pulse until the mixture is well combined but still slightly chunky.
  3. Form the mixture into small balls or patties.
  4. Heat oil in a deep fryer or large pot to 350°F.
  5. Carefully add the falafel to the hot oil and fry for 3-5 minutes, or until golden brown.
  6. Drain on a paper towel-lined plate.
  7. Serve the falafel in pita bread with tahini, tomatoes, and cucumber.

Enjoy these falafel balls with hummus and tahini, and don’t forget to sprinkle some sumac on top for that authentic Jerusalem flavor.

Jerusalem Hummus Recipe

As an amateur chef, I am always trying to create authentic Jerusalem-style Palestinian recipes, and who doesn’t love hummus?! So, after a ton of trial and error, I want to share my version of this recipe with all of you so you can experience the same joy I did.

This recipe is simple, yet delicious, and it’s perfect for those who love the taste of chickpeas and tahini. The secret to this recipe is the addition of Jerusalem-style spices, which gives it a unique and irresistible taste.

Ingredients:

  • 1 lb dried chickpeas
  • 1/4 cup tahini
  • 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
  • 2 cloves of garlic, minced
  • 2 tbsp olive oil
  • 1 tsp ground cumin
  • 1/2 tsp ground coriander
  • Salt and pepper, to taste

Instructions:

  1. Soak the chickpeas in water overnight. Drain and rinse the chickpeas.
  2. Add the chickpeas to a large pot and cover them with water. Bring to a boil and then reduce the heat and let them simmer for about an hour, or until they are very soft.
  3. Drain the chickpeas and reserve the cooking liquid.
  4. In a food processor, combine the chickpeas, tahini, lemon juice, garlic, olive oil, cumin, coriander, salt, and pepper. Process until smooth.
  5. If the hummus is too thick, add some of the reserved cooking liquid, a little at a time, until it reaches the desired consistency.
  6. Taste and adjust the seasoning as needed.
  7. Serve the hummus with warm pita bread and garnish with olive oil and parsley.

This recipe will yield about 4 servings. You can serve it as a side dish or as the main event! If you play around with the recipe and make it your own – great, just make sure you don’t call it hummus if you take out the chickpeas!

Jerusalem hummus
A typical late breakfast in a Palestinian home consists of hummus, yogurt, chopped fresh vegetables, and a proper dousing of olive oil and zaatar.

Jerusalem hummus is a delicious and classic dish. The addition of cumin and coriander in this hummus recipe gives it a warm and earthy flavor that is sure to please your taste buds. I hope you enjoy this recipe as much as I do. Happy cooking!

East Jerusalem Buses

Jerusalem-Ramallah buses

There’s often quite a bit of confusion around East Jerusalem buses, their routes, and their timetables, but we’re here to clear that up. The top three reasons you’ll want to hop on these bus lines are:

  1. To travel on the Jewish holidays or Sabbath (‘Shabbat’) when most public transportation is not in operation.
  2. You can still pay your fare in cash(!).
  3. To get to a neighborhood in East Jerusalem, of course!

Where They Go

Well, it’s rather apparent, but these bus routes go to East Jerusalem neighborhoods. In addition, you can take a bus line from Damascus Gate to Ramallah, Bethlehem, or to connections for Hebron, Jericho, Nablus, Tulkarem, et al.

When They Operate

Most of the bus lines operating through East Jerusalem work seven days a week, 365 days a year – yes, including Shabbat and Yom Kippur (but on the latter, they adjust routes to avoid predominantly Jewish-populated areas of the city). You’ll find that the buses run early in the morning to late in the evening, typically between 5:30 am to 10:30 pm. There is often an extended night schedule during the month of Ramadan.

How to Use The Bus

Payment can be made on the bus in cash (5.5 shekels – change is available for smaller amounts) or by using a national transit pass, known as a ‘Rav Kav’, and scanning it upon entry. There is no option to scan a QR code or pay by an app at the time of publishing (August 2022). If you’re using a Rav Kav, you can easily transfer between any bus and the light rail. If you paid cash, keep your receipt as proof of purchase –  you can typically use this up to 90 minutes from when you first started your trip to transfer to other East Jerusalem buses only.

Riding the bus can be a different experience depending on the day, time, route, and destination. Generally, you’ll find it common for men to give up their seats (without being asked) for women, and young adults will give up their seats for elders. Although there is no particular dress code, it is best to dress at least somewhat modestly (say, avoid crop tops and shorts). Speaking of modesty, exhibiting respectful behavior (not speaking loudly, for example) will benefit you.

Knowing when to get off – pay attention to the automated system in the bus, which will typically announce stops. If there is none (or it’s hard to hear/understand), follow along live with a mobile app like Moovit.

Getting off at your stop can be done by pushing a button. On some buses, you’ll push the button on the side of one of many vertical poles within the bus. On others, look directly above your seat – they’ll typically be yellow in color or the biggest button.

East Jerusalem Bus Lines

These bus lines originate from one of three clusters between Damascus Gate and Salah a-Din street in Jerusalem, all of which informally form an expanded area colloquially known as the ‘East Jerusalem Central Bus Station.’

east jerusalem bus stations

201 – Issawiya

The 201 Jerusalem bus line goes through Sheikh Jarrah, Mount Scopus, French Hill, and ends in Issawiya.

Key Points of Interest:

  • St. Joseph Hospital
  • Hebrew University
  • Hadassah Mt. Scopus (a.k.a. Hadassah Issawiya)
  • Hebrew University dormitories
  • Araba’in Mosque
  • Issawiya football field

203 – Sur Baher

The 203 bus line passes Abu Tor, through Jabal Mukaber, Sur Baher, and Umm Tuba.

Key Points of Interest:

  • Cinematheque
  • Haas Promenade
  • Gazil Junction
  • Al-Madinah al-Munawwarah

204 – Muntar

The 204 bus line goes past Abu Tor, Armon Hanatziv, East Talpiyot, and through Jabal Mukaber to Muntar.

Key Points of Interest:

  • Cinematheque
  • Haas Promenade
  • Abu Hamid Jazali School

205 – Jabal Mukaber

The 205 bus line passes Ras al Amud to Jabal Mukaber and Al-Sawahra al-Gharbiyye.

Key Points of Interest:

  • Mount of Olives
  • Sheikh Sa’ad
  • Zala’a School

206 – Jabal Mukaber

The 206 bus line passes Ras al Amud to Jabal Mukaber and Al-Sawahra al-Gharbiyye. It takes a similar route to that of the 205 bus.

Key Points of Interest:

  • Mount of Olives
  • Sheikh Sa’ad
  • Zala’a School

207 – Shuafat Refugee Camp

The 207 bus goes through Sheikh Jarrah, passes French Hill, goes through part of Shuafat, and ends up in the Shuafat Refugee Camp.

Key Points of Interest:

  • St. John and St. Joseph Hospitals
  • Givat Hamivtar Light Rail Station
  • Anata Checkpoint
  • Shuafat Terminal

218 – Ramallah

The 218 is an express bus from Damascus Gate to Ramallah. It goes through Sheikh Jarrah, passes by Beit Hanina, Pisgat Zeev, Neve Yaakov, Kafr Aqab, and Qalandiya.

Key Points of Interest:

  • St. John Hospital
  • Helen Keller School
  • Dahiat al Barid
  • Bir Nabala Junction
  • Kafr Aqab school
  • Qalandiya checkpoint
  • Atarot
  • Ramallah terminal

226 – A-Tur

The 226 passes by Wadi Joz and goes through At-Tur.

Key Points of Interest:

  • Red Crescent Hospital for Women
  • Brigham Young University (a.k.a. The Mormon University)
  • A-Tur Junction
  • HaZeitim Junction
  • Zaitoun Checkpoint

231 – Beit Jala

The 231 passes by Abu Tor, Talpiyot, Beit Safafa, and through Beit Jala and Bethlehem.

Key Points of Interest:

  • Cinematheque
  • Bank Junction (Tzomet Habankim)
  • Tunnel Checkpoint
  • Al-Khader Church
  • Beit Jala Checkpoint

232 – Beit Safafa

The 232 passes by Abu Tor and Talpiyot, and goes throughout Beit Safafa.

Key Points of Interest:

  • Cinematheque
  • Bank Junction (Tzomet Habankim)
  • Beit Safafa High School
  • Mosque Square
  • Beit Safafa Primary School

234 – Bethlehem

The 234 passes by Abu Tor, Talpiyot, Beit Safafa, and ends at Checkpoint 300.

Key Points of Interest:

  • Cinematheque
  • Bank Junction (Tzomet Habankim)
  • Checkpoint 300 (Bethlehem)
  • Rachel’s Tomb

236 – Ras al Amud

Key Points of Interest:

  • Mount of Olives
  • Shbiba School
  • Volcan College
  • Ras al Amud Square

246 – Atarot

The 246 is a route that goes between Qalandiya Checkpoint and the Atarot Industrial area.

Key Points of Interest:

  • Qaladia Checkpoint
  • Atarot Mall
  • Industrial Zone

254 – Anata

The 254 passes through Sheikh Jarrah, Shuafat, and Anata.

Key Points of Interest:

  • Givat Hatahmoshet Light Rail Station
  • Givat Hamivtar Light Rail Station
  • Al Hayat Medical Center
  • Anata Checkpoint
  • Khaled bin al Waleed Mosque

255 – A-Tor

The 255 passes through Sawana and A-Tor.

Key Points of Interest:

  • Church of Ascension
  • Makassed Hospital
  • Mormon University (BYU)
  • Hilal Hospital

256 – Silwan

The 256 passes by Ras al Amud and through Silwan.

Key Points of Interest:

  • Ras al Amud
  • Salach Intersection

257 – Ras Al Amoud

Key Points of Interest:

  • Mount of Olives
  • Ras al Amud Square

263 – Abu Dis

The 263 passes through Wadi Joz, Izariya, and Abu Dis.

Key Points of Interest:

  • Ministry of Interior
  • Abu Dis University

273 – Ramallah

The 273 goes through Sheikh Jarrah, then straight on to Beit Hanina and then Qalandiya and on to Ramallah.

Key Points of Interest:

  • Saint Joseph and Saint John Hospitals
  • Talat Hizma
  • Baladi Mall
  • Atarot
  • Qalandiya Checkpoint

274 – Ramallah

The 274 goes through Sheikh Jarrah, Shuafat, Beit Hanina, Qalandiya.

Key Points of Interest:

  • Saint Joseph and Saint John Hospitals
  • Beit Hanina Light Rail Station
  • Baladi Mall
  • Atarot
  • Qalandiya Checkpoint

275 – At-Tur

Key Points of Interest:

  • Hilal Hospital
  • Mormon University
  • Augusta Victoria
  • Makassed Hospital
  • Church of the Ascension

276 – Abu Tor

The 276 is a bus route that primarily goes through Abu Tor/A-Thuri, passing through Silwan along the way.

Key Points of Interest:

  • Cinematheque
  • Ahmad Samih Khalid School
  • City of David

285 – A-Zaim

The 285 goes through At-Tur and A-Zaim.

Key points of interest:

  • Brigham Young University
  • Hilal Hospital
  • A Zaim Checkpoint

286 – Abu Tor

The 286 goes around the Old City, as well as through parts of Silwan and Abu Tor (A-Thuri).

Key points of interest:

  • Herod’s Gate
  • Lion’s Gate
  • Dung Gate
  • Jaffa Gate
  • Cinematheque

287 – Wadi Joz

The 287 is a bus line that primarily acts as a shuttle through Wadi Joz.

  • Ministry of Interior
  • Al-Muqadasi

Looking to get to the airport? Check here for transportation to Ben Gurion Airport.

Middle Eastern Spicy Sauce Recipe (Shatta/Zhug)

The Middle East is certainly hot and spicy … and we don’t just mean the people! Cuisine in the region bursts with flavor waiting to test your tastebuds. Can you stand the heat? Get in the kitchen and try out this quick and easy recipe for a delicious spicy sauce called ‘Zhug’ (סחוג) in Hebrew and known as ‘Shatta’ (شطة) in Palestinian Arabic. There are red and green versions of our team’s favorite ethnic condiment, so we’ve provided you with both (even though we prefer the green version or “zhug yarok”).

Green Zhug Recipe

zhug-green-spicy-paste
Spicy green condiment known as sahaweq/zhug/shatta.

Ingredients:

  • 1 cup of finely chopped fresh cilantro (coriander)
  • 5 serrano peppers (serrano are skinny and slightly longer green peppers)
  • 3 large garlic cloves
  • 1/3 teaspoon cumin
  • 1/3 teaspoon salt
  • 1 teaspoon water
  • 2 tablespoons of olive oil

Preparation:

  1. Wash the serrano peppers. Seed them and remove the white pith. Chop coarsely and place in a food processor.
  2. Wash the cilantro well and pat dry. Remove stems and chop the leaves. Add to the food processor.
  3. Peel the garlic and add to the pepper and cilantro mixture. Add cumin and salt.
  4. Blend. Add water and olive oil as needed. Blend until desired consistency is reached.

Red Zhug Recipe

harissa-red-spicy-paste
Delicious red sahaweq/shatta, also known as harissa.

Ingredients:

  • 5 oz of dried hot red peppers
  • 2 tablespoons of cumin
  • a couple of pinches of black pepper
  • 7 cardamom pods, ground
  • 2 whole heads of garlic, peeled and chopped
  • pinch of salt
  • 2 pieces of cilantro, washed, stemmed and chopped

Preparation:

  1. Add all above ingredients to a stone or clay mortar.
  2. Grind into a paste with the pestle.

Either of the above Middle Eastern spicy condiment recipes can be used for a variety of dishes. Marinate a protein (such as fish) in the sauce, douse over sides like rice or hummus, or take a piece of bread and spread it on in a thick layer for a great bite!

This spicy sauce condiment goes great with Palestinian food, too.